[The tanneries in the old medina. They give you a sprig of mint to hold under your nose while looking down on this traditional tannery]
The streets and lanes of Bath may often feel like an obstacle course when getting around by car or on foot, but that’s pure chickenfeed when it comes to navigating the myriad of streets that spread out like spaghetti within the old walled medina here in Fes.
A large number of them have no names, and we were told the post has to be delivered by a locally born person, as no outsider would find their way to the right address.
Many of the streets that have names refer to the craft trade they contain – be it handmade leather slippers, silverware or spices.
Outside of the huge and ancient enclosure, this heritage city in the north of Morocco offers wide boulevards, green palms and parks, fine palaces and venerable vistas.
All of which were shown to us by our knowledgeable guide, Khalafa Elasefar, but it was when we dived into the hustle and bustle of this traditional arab town that claustrophobia began to set in.
Khalafa had ushered us into this tourist hotspot as early as possible, before our fellow overseas visitors arrived in their coachloads, but they were not far behind us. He is one of many guides earning their living by giving us a taste of life on their home turf.
It was while winding our way through this maze of markets that he told us of his most famous recent customer.
The day he was chosen to show Madonna around the souks. That was after an earlier meeting with this queen of pop’s management team, where he’d been ‘auditioned’ for the role.
I hope she enjoyed his company as much as we did. Fes is the location of the world’s first multidisciplinary university – and one founded by a woman to boot!
It was in one of the medina’s former places of education that he improved our knowledge of the contribution the Arab world made to Western civilisation in terms of higher education, science and mathematics.
Our clock faces bear their numbers, while algebra, alchemy, artichoke, alcohol, and apricot all derive from Arabic words which came to the West during the age of the Crusades. As it happens, they were the first to appreciate the delights of coffee, for which I personally thank them!
We’re grateful to know our good friend Lisa is keeping our cat Mr George company back home. Here in these colourful and hectic ancient streets, a whole feline army is in residence.
Our whiskered friends hold a special place in Islamic teachings. The Prophet Muhammad is reported to have had a fondness for cats, and several Hadiths mention his interactions with them. One famous Hadith tells the story of the Prophet cutting his sleeve rather than disturbing a cat that was sleeping on it.
On a more practical level, you won’t find many rats roaming freely in this medina!!
Tomorrow, a six-hour drive to Marrakech.
